Steel Wheels
Circa 2025
The De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels is a striking embodiment of contemporary haute horlogerie - a timepiece where technical innovation and poetic design converge in perfect harmony. As part of the celebrated DB28 lineage, it reflects the singular vision of Denis Flageollet and his pursuit of redefining traditional watchmaking through modern materials, architectural movement design, and celestial inspiration.
Crafted in polished titanium, the 38.7 mm case offers a more compact and refined interpretation of the iconic DB28 silhouette. Its slim profile, combined with De Bethune’s patented floating lugs, ensures exceptional comfort and adaptability on the wrist. These articulated lugs, a hallmark of the Maison, provide both ergonomic excellence and a distinctive visual identity that sets the DB28 apart within modern watchmaking.
The defining feature of the Steel Wheels lies in its openworked dial, where the architecture of the movement takes center stage. Unlike conventional skeletonization, De Bethune approaches transparency with structural intention - revealing key elements such as the barrel, gear train, and balance while preserving visual harmony. At 6 o’clock, the brand’s signature mirror-polished, heat-blued titanium balance wheel oscillates with mesmerizing precision, anchored by a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system that enhances both performance and durability.
At its heart beats the manually wound calibre DB2115V4, a movement entirely conceived and manufactured in-house by De Bethune. Comprising over 200 components and offering a power reserve of approximately six days, it exemplifies the brand’s technical mastery. Innovations such as the silicon escape wheel and the titanium balance with white gold inserts ensure optimal chronometric stability, while the hand-finished steel bridges, polished to a mirror sheen, create a captivating interplay of light and reflection - the very element that gives the “Steel Wheels” its name.
A chapter ring with applied hour markers provides clarity without detracting from the mechanical spectacle beneath, while the minimalist hands ensure precise legibility. Sapphire crystals on both sides of the case allow uninterrupted views of the movement, reinforcing the timepiece’s architectural transparency. The watch is completed with a hand-stitched alligator strap and a matching titanium pin buckle, maintaining a cohesive and understated elegance.
Offered here in exceptional condition, the DB28XS Steel Wheels represents a rare opportunity to acquire one of De Bethune’s most refined and wearable creations. It is a watch that transcends traditional boundaries - where engineering becomes art, and time is expressed through light, motion, and mechanical poetry.
Technical Information
Case diameter:
38.7 mm
Case thickness:
8 mm
Case Material:
Polished grade 5 titanium
Movement:
Mechanical manual-winding calibre
Strap:
Alligator leather
Country of Manufacture:
Switzerland
Color:
Polished titanium
ABOUT
DE BETHUNE
A Vision Beyond Tradition
Founded in 2002 by master watchmaker Denis Flageollet and entrepreneur David Zanetta, De Bethune represents a rare and uncompromising voice within contemporary haute horlogerie. While relatively young compared to historic maisons, the brand has established itself as one of the most innovative and technically accomplished independent watchmakers of the 21st century. Rooted in a deep respect for classical watchmaking, De Bethune simultaneously challenges convention, redefining what is possible through material science, engineering, and design.
Innovation and Craftsmanship
At the heart of De Bethune lies a relentless pursuit of innovation. The manufacture is renowned for developing proprietary technologies, from its patented balance wheels and advanced shock-absorption systems to the extensive use of silicon and titanium components. Each movement is conceived, developed, and produced in-house, reflecting a level of vertical integration rarely seen in independent watchmaking. Yet, despite its forward-thinking approach, every component is finished by hand to the highest standards — mirror polishing, hand-beveling, and meticulous decoration ensure that technical excellence is matched by artisanal beauty.
A Distinctive Aesthetic
De Bethune’s design language is unmistakable. The brand’s creations are defined by their architectural movements, openworked dials, and a unique interplay of light and reflection. Signature elements such as mirror-polished steel bridges, heat-blued titanium components, and spherical moon phases create a visual identity that is both futuristic and deeply poetic. The iconic floating lugs, developed for optimal ergonomics, further distinguish De Bethune’s timepieces, offering both comfort and a bold, sculptural presence on the wrist.
Mechanical Excellence
De Bethune’s calibres are celebrated for their technical sophistication and chronometric performance. Innovations such as the silicon escape wheel, titanium balance with gold inserts, and triple pare-chute shock protection systems demonstrate the brand’s commitment to precision and reliability. Long power reserves, often extending up to six days, are achieved through highly efficient energy management and advanced engineering solutions. Each movement is not only a technical instrument but also a visual masterpiece, designed to be admired as much as it is to perform.
A Modern Haute Horlogerie Icon
In just over two decades, De Bethune has earned widespread acclaim among collectors and connoisseurs, securing its place at the forefront of independent watchmaking. The brand continues to push boundaries while maintaining an unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and innovation. Every De Bethune timepiece is a testament to a philosophy that bridges past and future — where tradition serves as a foundation, and imagination defines the horizon.
